Summary

22 items · 45–90 minutes

Why Preparation Matters More Than You Might Expect

Rabbits are often described as low-maintenance pets, but that framing can be misleading. While they don't need walks or baths, rabbits are sensitive animals with specific housing, dietary, and social needs. Arriving home to an incomplete setup can cause unnecessary stress for both the rabbit and its new owner.

The good news is that thoughtful preparation — done in advance — makes the first days far smoother. This checklist walks you through every category, from enclosure setup and food supplies to vet registration and home safety. Work through it before pickup day, not after.

If you're also considering another small companion animal, our bird cage placement and setup guide demonstrates how much environment design matters across different species.

Enclosure Setup

Choose an enclosure at least 4 times the length of your rabbit, with enough height to stand upright on hind legs. Must
Place the enclosure in a temperature-stable area, away from direct sunlight, drafts, and loud noise sources. Must
Line the floor with non-slip, comfortable bedding such as paper-based litter or fleece — avoid cedar or pine shavings. Must
Set up a designated litter box in a corner of the enclosure, filled with paper-based litter and a layer of hay on top. Must
Add a hiding structure or enclosed shelter inside the enclosure so your rabbit has a retreat space. Should

Food and Water Supplies

Stock Timothy hay in bulk — it should be available at all times and make up the majority of an adult rabbit's diet. Must
Attach a heavy ceramic food bowl or clip-on bowl for fresh leafy greens, positioned so it can't be tipped easily. Must
Install a drip-free water bottle or a heavy ceramic water bowl, and fill it before your rabbit arrives. Must
Purchase a small supply of rabbit-safe leafy greens (such as romaine lettuce, cilantro, or parsley) for the first few days. Should
Avoid muesli-style pellet mixes; if feeding pellets, choose plain, uniform timothy-based pellets in limited amounts. Should

Rabbit-Proofing Your Home

Identify and cover or relocate all accessible electrical cords using cable protectors, conduit, or cord covers. Must
Block access to any spaces where a rabbit could become trapped, such as behind appliances or under low furniture. Must
Remove or elevate toxic houseplants, including lilies, philodendron, and pothos, from all areas your rabbit will access. Must
Secure baseboards and low furniture legs with protective covers if you plan to allow free-roam time. Should

Health and Vet Preparation

Locate and register with a veterinary practice that explicitly confirms it sees rabbits before your pet arrives. Must
Book a new-pet wellness check for within the first week of bringing your rabbit home. Must
Research the vaccination schedule relevant to your region — in the US, RHDV2 vaccine availability varies by state. Should
Prepare a basic record folder with your rabbit's health history or adoption paperwork before the vet visit. Nice to have

Settling In

Plan for a quiet 24–48 hour adjustment window — avoid introducing your rabbit to many people or other pets immediately. Must
Allow your rabbit to approach you rather than forcing handling during the first days; sit near the enclosure calmly. Should
Maintain a consistent daily routine for feeding, cleaning, and interaction from day one. Should

What You'll Need Before Your Rabbit Arrives

Having the right supplies on hand is non-negotiable. Below are the core tools and materials to gather in advance. Most are available at pet supply stores, but sourcing them early prevents last-minute scrambles.

Required

Spacious indoor enclosure or exercise pen

Provides your rabbit with a safe, contained living space that allows natural movement and separation of activity zones.

Required

Timothy hay (bulk supply)

The dietary foundation for adult rabbits; must be available continuously for digestive and dental health.

Required

Paper-based litter

Used in the litter box to absorb waste safely; avoid clay-clumping or cedar-based products.

Required

Heavy ceramic food and water bowls or bottle

Prevents tipping and keeps food and fresh water accessible and uncontaminated.

Required

Rabbit-safe hiding house or tunnel

Gives your rabbit a retreat space inside the enclosure, which is essential for reducing stress.

Required

Electrical cord covers or cable conduit

Protects cords from chewing and prevents electrical hazards during free-roam time.

Optional

Grooming brush (slicker or soft bristle)

Used for regular coat maintenance; especially important for long-haired breeds to prevent matting.

Required

Secure transport carrier

Needed to bring your rabbit home safely and for future veterinary trips.

Unlike setting up for a dog or cat, rabbit preparation involves some species-specific items — particularly around hay storage and safe flooring. For comparison, see how the process differs in our first-time cat owner guide.

Avoid Wire-Floor Cages

Wire-bottom cages are still sold in some stores but are not suitable for rabbits. Prolonged contact with wire flooring can cause a painful condition called sore hocks (ulcerative pododermatitis) on the hind feet. Always provide a solid, cushioned floor surface or cover wire sections completely with non-slip matting or fleece.

Not All Vets See Rabbits

Rabbits are classified as exotic small mammals in many veterinary practices, meaning not every clinic is equipped or trained to treat them. Calling ahead to confirm rabbit care availability before your pet arrives — rather than in an emergency — is strongly advised.

Health, Safety, and the First 48 Hours

The first two days at home are a critical settling-in window. Rabbits are prey animals by instinct, which means they can experience significant stress when moved to a new environment. Keeping things calm, quiet, and consistent during this period helps your rabbit begin to feel secure.

Register with a rabbit-savvy vet before your rabbit comes home — not after. Many general veterinary practices do not see rabbits or other exotic small animals, so confirming this in advance is important. Schedule a wellness check within the first week.

GI Stasis Is a Medical Emergency

Gastrointestinal stasis — when a rabbit's digestive system slows or stops — is a life-threatening condition that can develop rapidly. If your rabbit stops eating, produces no droppings, or appears hunched and lethargic, contact a rabbit-savvy vet immediately. Do not wait to see if the situation improves on its own. This is one reason why identifying your vet before arrival, not after, is so important.

Once your rabbit has had a day or two to settle in its enclosure, you can begin supervised free-roam time in a rabbit-proofed space. Keep initial sessions short and observe body language — a relaxed rabbit will stretch out and move with curiosity rather than freezing or hiding continuously.

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